Philip III, byname Philip the Good, French Philippe le Bon (b. 1396, Dijon, d. 1467, Bruges), the most important of the Valois dukes of Burgundy (reigned 1419-67) and the true founder of the Burgundian state that rivaled France in the 15th century.
Philip was the son of John the Fearless and Margaret of Bavaria. When he became duke of Burgundy at the age of 23, his first aim was to extricate himself as expeditiously as possible from the French affairs in which his father, Duke John, had been embroiled and that had led to his assassination in 1419. Holding the dauphin Charles (later Charles VII of France) answerable for his father's murder, Philip signed the Treaty of Troyes with King Henry V of England in 1420, a treaty in which the queen of France, Isabella of Bavaria, conferred succession to the French crown on Henry and partitioned France among England, Burgundy, and her disinherited son, the dauphin Charles.
Philip paid little attention to potential conquests in France and preferred to remain uncommitted there. He maintained his alliance with England, apart from a break in 1435-39, when he tried but failed to conquer Calais, but seldom gave England serious help against France. On the other hand, especially after 1435, when he acknowledged Charles as king of France and accepted his disavowal of the murder of John the Fearless, he did his best to be on reasonably good terms with the king of France. His real interests lay not in France but in the development of his own territories.
Behind an impressive, if bizarre, facade of courtly splendour and chivalrous festivity, Duke Philip the Good was an aggressive opportunist who, especially in the first half of his ducal reign, concentrated on the task of attacking and swallowing up his smaller neighbours. Namur was purchased in 1421; Hainaut fell to Burgundian arms in 1427; the rich duchy of Brabant was taken over in 1430; and the combined counties of Holland and Zeeland were conquered in a long series of personally led and bitterly contested campaigns between 1424 and 1433. The crowning achievement of Philip's policy of territorial expansion was his conquest of the duchy of Luxembourg in 1443.
It was under Philip that the richness and extravagance of court life in the European Middle Ages reached its apogee. Philip, whose personal tastes in clothes were relatively simple, loved to surround himself with all the pomp and pageantry that the age could command. In 1430 he founded a new order of chivalry, a Burgundian version of the British Order of the Garter, called the Toison d'Or, or Golden Fleece, membership of which was limited to 24 noblemen of proven valour and wide renown. Court was held at Brussels or Bruges, in Brabant and Flanders, respectively; or at Hesdin or Lille, in northeastern France; or at some other centre.
The best artists of the day were employed by Philip to paint his banners and pennons, to decorate his palaces and carriages, and to illuminate what was probably the finest collection of picture books ever put together. The artist Jan van Eyck accompanied a ducal embassy to Portugal to paint the king's daughter Isabella, so that Philip could see her likeness before committing himself to marrying her. Sculptors worked on tombs at Philip's command, and exquisite tapestries were embroidered under his personal supervision. A host of musicians, jewelers, goldsmiths, and other craftsmen and artists were employed at his court. The bawdy stories exchanged by Philip and his courtiers after dinner were collected into Les Cent Nouvelles Nouvelles, or "The Hundred New Short Stories."
Some of the more elaborate banquets, notably the Feast of the Pheasant in 1454, at Lille, were open to the public, who could admire the endless array of model ships and towers, pies with people inside them, peacocks, swans, and eagles (mock or real), and other paraphernalia that accompanied the various dishes. Other entertainment was held from time to time in the form of tournaments or passages of arms, and Duke Philip's courtiers roamed about Europe issuing challenges and doing battle with their colleagues from other lands.
Duke Philip was tall, handsome, and bony in figure; his face was long and lean, with a high forehead, prominent nose, and bushy eyebrows. Excellent in health, he enjoyed hunting, tennis, archery, and jousting in his youth, but he turned in his later years to making clogs, repairing broken glasses, and soldering broken knives. His many bastard children caused the bishop of Tournai (himself a bastard) to criticize him for what the ecclesiastic called "the weakness of the flesh." Some were brought up at court; others went into the church. His mistresses were kept out of affairs of state, and it was mere geographic convenience and economy that caused him to maintain several at once in the different towns where he held court. Self-assured and flamboyant almost to the end, he died, possibly of pneumonia, at Bruges in 1467.)